Sometimes a package from a stranger can change your life. Over twenty years ago, I received an e-mail (on the very primitive Prodigy network) from an elderly dressmaker, asking me if I wanted some patterns. A few days later, ten cartons arrived at my house. Her collection of dress patterns spanned from the 1940's to the 1970's. These patterns afforded me all the things I loved about vintage clothing with the option to customize the clothes for my needs. I freely take inspiration from the major style elements and interesting seaming and combine them with current fabrics and trends for a fresh look. I hope you are as inspired as I am!

Here are a few projects I have been working on...

Brand: Vogue Americana
Year: 1965
Designer: Chuck Howard

I am always intrigued by seaming that works in the round, where the design starts in the front and continues to create a surprise in the back! I found this reversible patterned fabric and thought it would be fun to experiment with. To create a more modern styling, the A-line dresses have been narrowed in the side-seams. I also added the pockets. (Pockets are always great if they enhance both comfort and design). The slight dip in the back waist seam is very flattering and something I rarely see anymore.

             

    

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Brand: Simplicity
Year: 1967
Designer: NA

Here is a "Jiffy" Simplicity dress from 1967 . I hate to chop up a large print , so a three piece pattern is perfect! The diagonal waist to bust darts are  really a great easy way to size a pattern down (this started out very big). I take my cues from the textile print, and traded the high jewel neckline for a lower square one which I felt worked better. I also added a contrasting red zipper in the back, for a fun effect. The high armhole and smaller sleeve cap in vintage patterns makes a big difference from more modern clothing patterns.
              

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Brand: Butterick
Year: 1960's
Designer: NA

Once again I  found a pattern with wrap around seaming!  This is an undated Butterick pattern from the 60's. I consider it a challenge to accentuate the creative seaming with a fun textile choice We picked a purple and black houndstooth cotton and a black contrasting fabric. It does take time to figure out which fabric goes where.  I extended the curve line to create the black triangular piece on the back.  This pattern has great potential and would be fun to make in various combinations for different effects. The large vintage black buttons on the neck become an accessory themselves. The 3/4 length sleeve is very trendy now as is the color blocking. Eliza loved the idea of two different colored sleeves.
              

                     

 

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This is a real Mad Men suit with a lot of modern whimsy! The textile is a rayon faille and I was lucky to get the small giraffe print and the solid brown in the exact fabric. I can't resist playing with the patterning  ( I was also short on fabric) so I sliced the sleeve pattern up and inserted the print down the center. I also added to the bottom of the skirt  both to lengthen it and to add a decorative element.  In keeping with the animal theme, the closure is a natural horn button.

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Brand: Simplicity
Year: Early 1960's
Designer: NA

Here is your classic early 1960's day dress updated for a modern yet retro look. I needed a fish themed fabric for a Coney Island event and found this great cotton with an Asian carp print. The collar and sash are black taffeta for an evening look. I was inspired by the print and wanted an obi type belt so I made it much longer and wider then the pattern called for, and added an 8" fringe on the bottom. I also eliminated one of the waist darts for a blousier look, and put two hidden snaps instead of buttons for a top closure. It's always a hassle having closures on the front and the side, and since there was a center front seam anyway, I put a 4" waistline zipper there.The zipper is almost completely hidden by the sash and getting dressed is a lot easier!